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Tasmania · day 4 of 9

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Day 4 ·
StrahanStrathgordon
Strahan to Lake Pedder

The longest day of the trip. 99 Bends, the Lyell, then up Lake Dobson Road for Tarn Shelf. Leave Strahan at 7:30 and it works comfortably.

325
km
5.4
hrs driving
1
hrs walking
0
km gravel
Date
Daylight
05:56 to 20:07
14.2 hrs · be parked by dark
Weather
Needs signal
The roof
Needs signal
07:30
leave
20:50
back by
17
stages

Daylight 14.2 hrs

First light · Strahan
05:25
Sunrise 05:56
Sunset · Strathgordon
20:07
Last light 20:38
Driving ends
15:55
Day ends 20:50
In daylight?
Yes
all in daylight

Food today 3 meals · 2 to sort

Breakfast
Strahan
07:00

The Coffee Shack, or something bought the night before

Watch
WATCH: you leave at 07:40 on a Saturday. Buy pastries on Friday evening and eat as you go.
Find it
Lunch
Derwent Bridge
12:45

Hungry Wombat Cafe, or the Derwent Bridge Wilderness Hotel

Timing
Lands exactly right off the Lyell. It is also the only food for 80 km in either direction, so do not push past it.
Find it
Dinner
Pedder Wilderness Lodge
17:15

The lodge restaurant - the only kitchen for 90 km

Watch
WATCH: ring ahead and tell them roughly when. Eat early, at 17:15, so you have the dam at 18:45 and Ted's Beach for sunset at 19:55.
Find it
!

Saturday. The lodge restaurant is the only dinner for 90 km, so tell them you are coming and roughly when. You also miss Salamanca Market, which is unavoidable on this shape.

Open the whole day in Maps5 stopsTonight: Strathgordon - Pedder Wilderness LodgeBOOKED
All accommodation

Weather needs signal. Everything else works offline.

The drive Strahan → Strathgordon

7:00
Breakfast: Strahan
The Coffee Shack, or something bought the night before | WATCH: you leave at 07:40 on a Saturday. Buy pastries on Friday evening and eat as you go.
meal
Map
7:30
Discipline today
Strahan to Strathgordon is about 325 km. It works comfortably, but only if you keep the Lyell stops short - The Wall in the Wilderness is the thing to sacrifice. You want to be at the dam for dusk, not driving in it.
note
7:40
Strahan -> Queenstown
Short hop north to the start of the climb.
B24A10
driving road · 40 min
Directions
8:30
The 99 Bends
Highlight. Climbs out of Queenstown to Gormanston. Tight, repetitive, lunar. Worth driving twice.
A10
driving road · 20 min
Map
9:00
Queenstown
Fill here. Nothing reliable until you are back at Maydena tomorrow, and Strathgordon has only a single pump.
fuel · 10 min
Map
9:20
Iron Blow & Horsetail Falls
At the top of the 99 Bends. Cantilevered platform over the flooded open-cut, and a sealed 40-min boardwalk to a big waterfall. Both free.
A10
Map
10:30
Donaghys Hill Lookout
40 min return. The Franklin and Frenchmans Cap laid out below - the best view on the highway, and the one Lyell stop worth keeping.
A10
walk · 40 min
Map
11:20
Lyell Highway
Highlight. Fast open curves, rainforest walls, long straights across buttongrass plains. Nelson Falls is 20 min if you are ahead of schedule.
A10
driving road · 1 h 15
Map
12:45
Derwent Bridge -> Maydena
Past Tarraleah and its penstocks, down the Derwent valley, then west. Last fuel and food at Maydena.
A10B61
driving road · 1 h 40
Directions
12:45
Lunch: Derwent Bridge
Hungry Wombat Cafe, or the Derwent Bridge Wilderness Hotel | Lands exactly right off the Lyell. It is also the only food for 80 km in either direction, so do not push past it.
meal
Map
14:35
Gordon River Road
Highlight, and the reason for tonight. 90 km west through the World Heritage Area. Sealed, smooth, empty. Rainforest, then buttongrass, then Lake Pedder opens up at Knob Hill.
B61
driving road · 1 h 20
Map
16:05
Creepy Crawly Nature Trail
20 min at Frodshams Pass. Twisted mossy horizontal scrub, boardwalked, and you duck under branches - hence the name. The most atmospheric 20 minutes on the road.
B61
walk · 20 min
Map
16:35
Check in at Pedder Wilderness Lodge
BOOKED. The only accommodation for 90 km. Restaurant, bar with one of the state’s biggest whisky collections, indoor heated pool, and a 2,000-year-old Huon pine log at the entrance.
Map
17:15
Dinner: Pedder Wilderness Lodge
The lodge restaurant - the only kitchen for 90 km | WATCH: ring ahead and tell them roughly when. Eat early, at 17:15, so you have the dam at 18:45 and Ted's Beach for sunset at 19:55.
meal
Map
18:45
Gordon Dam at dusk
10 min past the lodge. 140 m of double-curvature arch wedged in a gorge, open 24 hours and unstaffed. Lookout platforms at the top, or 199 steps down to the crest - walking out along it is genuinely unnerving.
Map
19:55
Ted’s Beach for sunset
Boardwalk to the water on Lake Pedder, facing west into the Sentinels. This is the thing day-trippers never see, because by now they are back at Maydena.
Map
20:50
Look up before bed
One of the least light-polluted places on earth, and you are far enough south for aurora australis. Nothing else on this itinerary offers a sky like it - Hobart, Strahan and Launceston all have skyglow.
note

On foot 2

Donaghys Hill Lookout
Add-on · Easy-moderate
0.7 hr

The Franklin and Frenchmans Cap below.

Time 0.7 hrs return   Distance 2 km
Access Sealed, roadside
Trailhead in Maps
Creepy Crawly Nature Trail
Add-on · Easy
0.3 hr

On Gordon River Road. Mossy horizontal scrub.

Time 0.3 hrs return   Distance 0.8 km
Access Sealed, roadside
Trailhead in Maps

Things to do 3

West Coast Wilderness Railway
Queenstown · Railway
half day

Restored rack-and-pinion steam line to Dubbil Barril. Would eat the morning Tarn Shelf needs - one for a return trip.

Open in Maps
Iron Blow & Spion Kop lookouts
Queenstown · Scenic
40 min

Cantilevered platform over the flooded open-cut, plus a short steep climb for the moonscape view. Both free.

Open in Maps
The Wall in the Wilderness
Derwent Bridge · Gallery
45 min

100 m of hand-carved Huon pine. Unexpectedly moving, and the thing to sacrifice today.

Open in Maps

Sights & stops 7

Iron Blow Lookout
Queenstown · Viewpoint
20 min

Cantilevered platform over the flooded open-cut that started it all, at the top of the 99 Bends.

Open in Maps
Horsetail Falls boardwalk
Queenstown · Short walk
40 min

Sealed, accessible, 20 min each way to a big fall on the way up the pass.

Open in Maps
Eric Thomas Galley Museum
Queenstown · Museum
1 hr

Dense, chaotic photographic record of the mining town. Idiosyncratic and worth it.

Open in Maps
Nelson Falls
Lyell Hwy · Short walk
20 min

Roadside boardwalk to a wide rainforest fall. Best after rain.

Open in Maps
Lake St Clair
Derwent Bridge · Scenery
1-2 hrs

Deepest lake in Australia and the south end of the Overland Track.

Open in Maps
Hydro village & penstocks
Tarraleah · Industrial
20 min

Six enormous pipes plunging down the hillside. Art-deco company town.

Open in Maps
Willow Court
New Norfolk · Heritage
45 min

Australia's oldest surviving asylum complex, now antique shops and a restaurant. Bleak and fascinating.

Open in Maps

Eat & drink 7

Tracks Cafe
Queenstown · Cafe

Beside the historic railway station, vintage fit-out.

Best for Best breakfast in town
Open in Maps
Cafe Serenade
Queenstown · Cafe
Big brunch

Salmon eggs benedict, and locals rate the coffee highly.

Best for Big brunch
Open in Maps
Hungry Wombat Cafe
Derwent Bridge · Roadhouse

Fuel, pies, coffee. Assume limited hours.

Best for The only stop for 80 km
Open in Maps
Wilderness Hotel
Derwent Bridge · Pub
Lunch

Huge open fire, big timber room, solid pub food.

Best for Lunch
Open in Maps
The Possum Shed
Westerway · Cafe
Near Mt Field

Creekside on the B61, platypus sometimes visible from the deck.

Best for Near Mt Field
Open in Maps
The Agrarian Kitchen
New Norfolk · Fine dining
TONIGHT OR NEVER

Closed Tue and Wed, so Saturday works. Set menu about $220pp, allow 3 hrs, reservations open four months ahead. Two minutes from your bed.

Best for TONIGHT OR NEVER
Open in Maps
The Bush Inn / Old Colony Inn
New Norfolk · Pub
Fallback

If the Agrarian is booked out.

Best for Fallback
Open in Maps

Legs 292 km

Strahan -> Queenstown
B24 / A10
40 km · 0h40
Queenstown -> Derwent Bridge (Lyell)
A10
85 km · 1h15
Derwent Bridge -> Mt Field
A10 / B61
90 km · 1h15
Mt Field -> Lake Dobson and back (32 km gravel)
Lake Dobson Rd
32 km · 1h00
Mt Field -> New Norfolk
B62
45 km · 0h40

Along the way 17 optional

Nothing here is scheduled. This is what else is on today's road, roughly in the order you pass it - for when a walk gets cut short or the weather turns.

Coffee, food and drink 1

The Possum Shed
Westerway · Coffee
40 min

Creekside on the B61, and platypus sometimes visible from the deck. Check the hours.

Open in Maps

Sights and activities 16

Horsetail Falls boardwalk
Queenstown · Walk
40 min

Sealed, accessible, 20 min each way to a big fall on the way up the pass. Do it on the climb.

Open in Maps
Iron Blow Lookout
Queenstown · Viewpoint
20 min

Cantilevered platform over the flooded open-cut that started the town. At the top of the 99 Bends.

Open in Maps
Lake Burbury picnic area
Lake Burbury · Scenery
30 min

Big water against bare hills, 15 min east of Queenstown. First real stop on the Lyell.

Open in Maps
Nelson Falls
Lyell Hwy · Walk
25 min

Roadside boardwalk to a wide rainforest fall. Best after rain, and only 20 min.

Open in Maps
Franklin River Nature Trail
Lyell Hwy · Walk
30 min

25 min loop through myrtle at the river crossing that started the blockade.

Open in Maps
Surprise Valley and King William Saddle
Lyell Hwy · Viewpoint
20 min

Two roadside pull-offs where the highway crosses the divide. Big, bleak and worth slowing for.

Open in Maps
The Wall in the Wilderness
Derwent Bridge · Gallery
45 min

100 m of hand-carved Huon pine. Unexpectedly moving. WATCH - this is the stop to sacrifice today if you want the dam at dusk.

Open in Maps
Lake St Clair - Watersmeet
Derwent Bridge · Walk
1 hr

Deepest lake in Australia, and the southern end of the Overland Track. Platypus Bay and the Larmairremener tabelti cultural walk both start here.

Open in Maps
Tarraleah penstocks and lookout
Tarraleah · Industrial
30 min

Six enormous pipes plunging down the hillside, in an art-deco company village. Photogenic in a way nothing else on this route is.

Open in Maps
Wayatinah Lagoon
Wayatinah · Scenery
20 min

Quiet hydro lagoon just off the highway. Good leg-stretch on a long transit.

Open in Maps
Junee Cave
Maydena · Walk
30 min

Sealed, short walk to where the Junee River comes straight out of the mountain - the outflow of Australia's deepest cave system. Better done tomorrow if today is tight.

Open in Maps
Creepy Crawly Nature Trail
Gordon River Rd · Walk
20 min

Boardwalked loop through twisted mossy horizontal scrub. The most atmospheric 20 min on the road.

Open in Maps
Humboldt Divide and the Sentinels
Gordon River Rd · Viewpoint
20 min

Where the rainforest gives way to buttongrass and the Sentinel Range appears to the south. Unmarked pull-offs; take one.

Open in Maps
Knob Hill, Lake Pedder
Gordon River Rd · Viewpoint
20 min

First proper sight of the lake. Also your turn-back point if the day has run late.

Open in Maps
Lodge Forest Trail
Strathgordon · Walk
30 min

Short loop across the road from the lodge. Something to do with the last of the light.

Open in Maps
Gordon Dam abseil
Strathgordon · Activity
half day

140 m down the face - the highest commercial abseil in the world. Needs booking, and it would replace the drive rather than join it.

Open in Maps

Road surface

Lake Dobson Rd, 16 km each way. Inside your limit, and worth it.

325 km · 5.4 hrs driving · Strathgordon - Pedder Wilderness Lodge

← Day 3Gordon River cruiseDay 5 →Tarn Shelf, then Hobart