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Tasmania · day 8 of 9

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Day 8 ·
Dolphin Sands SwanseaLaunceston
Three passes, golf, then the Sideling

The biggest day of the trip. Three passes before lunch, 18 holes on the dunes above Bass Strait, then the Sideling as a descent into Launceston at dusk.

360
km
5.5
hrs driving
0
hrs walking
0
km gravel
Date
Daylight
05:41 to 20:04
14.4 hrs · be parked by dark
Weather
Needs signal
The roof
Needs signal
06:30
leave
20:05
back by
19
stages

Daylight 14.4 hrs

First light · Dolphin Sands
05:10
Sunrise 05:41
Sunset · Launceston
20:04
Last light 20:35
Driving ends
19:35
Day ends 21:45
In daylight?
Yes
all in daylight

Food today 3 meals · 2 to sort

Breakfast
Dolphin Sands - self-catered
06:00

Nothing is open anywhere. Keep something back from the Swansea shop

Watch
WATCH: 06:30 departure. This is the earliest start of the trip and there is no cafe within an hour.
Lunch
Barnbougle
12:35

The clubhouse before you tee off, or something carried

Timing
You check in at 12:25 and tee at 13:30. Eat now - it is 4.5 hours on foot with no cart.
Find it
Dinner
Launceston
20:15

Stillwater in the old flour mill, Black Cow for dry-aged beef, Geronimo if you are tired

Watch
WATCH: you arrive 19:45 on a Wednesday. Book before you leave Dolphin Sands - no signal across the passes.
Find it
!

Wednesday. Tee time is the only fixed point. The Sideling afterwards still finishes about 20 min before sunset, but it is the tightest daylight margin of the trip.

Open the whole day in Maps6 stopsTonight: Launceston - 73-75 St John StBOOKED
All accommodation

Weather needs signal. Everything else works offline.

The drive Dolphin Sands Swansea → Launceston

6:00
Breakfast: Dolphin Sands - self-catered
Nothing is open anywhere. Keep something back from the Swansea shop | WATCH: 06:30 departure. This is the earliest start of the trip and there is no cafe within an hour.
meal
Map
6:30
Tee time is the deadline today
Everything before it is negotiable. Leave Dolphin Sands by 06:30 and you reach the course about 12:15 with one optional stop in hand. Do the Bay of Fires AND St Columba and you arrive about 13:25 - which technically works, but leaves nothing for a slow pancake queue or roadworks.
note
6:40
Dolphin Sands -> Chain of Lagoons
Back out to the A3 and north past Coles Bay Rd, Bicheno and Douglas-Apsley to the foot of Elephant Pass. About 95 km - 30 min longer than from Coles Bay, which is why today starts at 06:30.
A3
driving road · 1 h 20
Directions
8:10
Elephant Pass
Highlight. Tight switchbacks off the coast through wet forest. Narrow, third gear, superb.
A4
driving road · 20 min
Map
8:40
Mt Elephant Pancake Barn
Top of the pass, and your one proper stop this morning. Check the opening time before relying on it - you will be there about 08:20 and it may not be open yet.
A4
Map
9:25
St Marys Pass, descending
Back down to the coast - faster and more open, and better this direction. Brief retrace, worth it for both passes.
A3
driving road · 20 min
Map
9:55
St Helens
Fill here. Also the decision point: if you are behind schedule, skip the Bay of Fires and go straight for Weldborough.
fuel · 10 min
Map
9:55
Binalong Bay & The Gardens
Optional. Sealed road along the edge of the beach, orange lichen granite against white sand. The first thing to cut if the clock is against you.
C850
Map
9:55
St Columba Falls
Optional. 30 min return to a 90 m fall on the sealed C428 from Pyengana. Second thing to cut.
C428
walk · 30 min
Map
10:15
Weldborough Pass
Highlight, and the best of the four. Tight, cambered, rhythmic, tree-fern gullies, no traffic, and it keeps going.
A3
driving road · 35 min
Map
11:00
Derby -> Scottsdale
Past the Little Blue Lake and the Legerwood carved trees if the morning went well. Otherwise straight through.
A3
driving road · 45 min
Directions
11:55
Scottsdale -> Bridport
North to the coast instead of west over the Sideling. Twenty minutes, and you swap a pass for a links course.
B84
driving road · 20 min
Directions
12:25
Check in at the Barnbougle pro shop
425 Waterhouse Rd. Allow time to walk your clubs across - reviewers complain about the distances between the buildings and the first tee.
Map
12:35
Lunch: Barnbougle
The clubhouse before you tee off, or something carried | You check in at 12:25 and tee at 13:30. Eat now - it is 4.5 hours on foot with no cart.
meal
Map
13:30
Barnbougle Dunes, 18 holes
THE ROUND. Tom Doak links along the dunes above Bass Strait, par 71. Walking only - carts need a medical certificate - so allow 4.5 hrs. Fescue tee to green, firm and fast, and the wind decides the day. Caddies are available but must be pre-booked and are reportedly in short supply.
Map
18:10
Drive first, eat second
Golf finishes about 18:10 and sunset at Launceston is 20:04. Leave straight away and you are in by 19:45 - daylight the whole way, with about 20 minutes spare. Eat at the course first and you do the Sideling in the dark.
note
18:20
Bridport -> Scottsdale -> Launceston
The Sideling, taken as a descent into Launceston. A long sequence of well-sighted bends, and the better direction for it. About 85 km, on the road roughly 18:20 to 19:45 against a 20:04 sunset - the thinnest daylight margin of the trip.
B84A3
driving road · 1 h 15
Directions
19:45
Arrive 73-75 St John St
Central Launceston, so Stillwater, Black Cow and Geronimo are all a short walk. Check whether parking is included - several central buildings charge separately.
Map
20:15
Dinner: Launceston
Stillwater in the old flour mill, Black Cow for dry-aged beef, Geronimo if you are tired | WATCH: you arrive 19:45 on a Wednesday. Book before you leave Dolphin Sands - no signal across the passes.
meal
Map

On foot 1

St Columba Falls
Main · Easy
0.5 hr

The C428 from Pyengana is sealed all the way. 90 m falls.

Time 0.5 hrs return   Distance 1.2 km
Access Sealed
Trailhead in Maps

Things to do 5

Barnbougle Dunes
Bridport · Golf
4.5 hrs

BOOK NOW - tee times are visible and bookable on their site. Tom Doak links, par 71, opened 2004 and consistently ranked among the best in the world. About $225-235 a round for visitors, less for Australian residents; $306-316 buys all-day play across the estate. Walking only unless you have a medical certificate. Caddies must be pre-booked and are in short supply.

Open in Maps
Barnbougle Lost Farm
Bridport · Golf
4.5 hrs

The sister course, Coore and Crenshaw, 20 holes. If you take the all-day estate rate you could play both - but not on this schedule.

Open in Maps
Bridport foreshore
Bridport · Walk
30 min

Flat coastal path and white sand, ten minutes from the course. Something gentle for the legs after 18 holes.

Open in Maps
Waubs Harbour Distillery
Bicheno · Distillery
1 hr

Oceanside single malt with harbourside tastings. You are driving - buy a bottle.

Open in Maps
Pyengana Dairy & Pub in the Paddock
Pyengana · Food
1.5 hrs

Cloth-bound cheddar made here since 1890, and an 1880 pub alone in a field. Both on the sealed C428.

Open in Maps

Sights & stops 12

Bicheno Blowhole
Bicheno · Geology
30 min

Fires spray high on a decent swell. Walkable from town.

Open in Maps
Bay of Fires
Binalong Bay · Scenery
1 hr

The sealed road to The Gardens runs along the edge of the beach. Orange lichen granite against white sand.

Open in Maps
St Columba Falls
Pyengana · Short walk
45 min

90 m, one of the state's highest, on the sealed C428.

Open in Maps
Barnbougle clubhouse restaurant
Bridport · Restaurant
Where you are sleeping

On site at the Dunes. Reviews are lukewarm - one describes the resort dining as average and breakfast at the Dunes as an embarrassment - so book it for convenience rather than the food.

Open in Maps
Bridport Cafe / Bridport Hotel
Bridport · Cafe / pub
10 min away

The village alternative if you would rather eat off-site. Straightforward pub food and a bakery.

Open in Maps
Flying Teapot / local seafood
Bridport · Cafe
Lunch if you arrive early

Bridport is a fishing village - crayfish and scallops in season.

Open in Maps
Weldborough Hotel
Weldborough · Pub
45 min

Isolated pub with a serious beer list at the top of the best pass on the trip.

Open in Maps
Little Blue Lake
Derby · Curiosity
20 min

Startling turquoise flooded tin mine. Beautiful and toxic - do not swim.

Open in Maps
Carved Memorial Trees
Legerwood · Public art
20 min

Chainsaw-carved WWI memorial trees, one per local soldier. Unexpectedly affecting.

Open in Maps
Barnbougle Dunes
Bridport · Golf links
included

Tom Doak links along the dunes above Bass Strait. Even if you only walk the first and last holes, the setting is the point - fescue, sand and Bass Strait with nothing between you and Victoria.

Open in Maps
Bridport village and beaches
Bridport · Village
45 min

Small fishing town, white sand, calm water. Quiet in a way the east coast towns are not.

Open in Maps
The Sideling
Scottsdale · Viewpoint
included

You skip it going north in the morning and take it as a descent into Launceston at dusk. The better direction, if not the better light.

Open in Maps

Eat & drink 14

The Lobster Shack
Bicheno · Seafood
Lobster roll

Dining deck over the fishing boats at the Gulch.

Best for Lobster roll
Open in Maps
Tasmanian Coastal Seafoods
Bicheno · Fish and chips
Award-winning

Tempura batter, kingfish, calamari, oysters. Water views.

Best for Award-winning
Open in Maps
Blue Edge Bakery
Bicheno · Bakery

Widely rated pies - the veggie and chicken curry get named.

Best for Breakfast and pies
Open in Maps
Mt Elephant Pancake Barn
St Marys · Pancakes

A genuine institution at the top of the pass. Non-negotiable.

Best for TOP OF ELEPHANT PASS
Open in Maps
The Purple Possum
St Marys · Cafe
Lunch

Cafe, wholefoods store, gallery and produce garden.

Best for Lunch
Open in Maps
Lifebuoy Cafe
St Helens · Cafe

Consistently the local pick.

Best for Best coffee in town
Open in Maps
Pyengana Dairy, Holy Cow
Pyengana · Cheese / cafe

Cloth-bound cheddar made here since 1890, right by St Columba Falls.

Best for Cheddar and a view
Open in Maps
Barnbougle clubhouse restaurant
Bridport · Restaurant

On site at the Dunes. Reviews are lukewarm - one describes the resort dining as average and breakfast at the Dunes as an embarrassment - so book it for convenience rather than the food.

Best for Where you are sleeping
Open in Maps
Bridport Cafe / Bridport Hotel
Bridport · Cafe / pub
10 min away

The village alternative if you would rather eat off-site. Straightforward pub food and a bakery.

Best for 10 min away
Open in Maps
Flying Teapot / local seafood
Bridport · Cafe

Bridport is a fishing village - crayfish and scallops in season.

Best for Lunch if you arrive early
Open in Maps
Weldborough Hotel
Weldborough · Pub
Serious beer list

Remarkable list for the middle of nowhere. Reduced midweek hours - check.

Best for Serious beer list
Open in Maps
Stillwater
Launceston · Fine dining

In a restored 1830s flour mill on the Tamar, about a 10 min walk from St John Street. Book before you leave Dolphin Sands - you will have no signal across the passes.

Best for THE LAST GOOD DINNER
Open in Maps
Black Cow Bistro
Launceston · Steakhouse

Dry-aged Tasmanian beef done properly, on George Street. Two minutes from your door.

Best for Simpler, and close
Open in Maps
Geronimo
Launceston · Bar / small plates

Charles Street, buzzy, runs late. The easiest option after 18 holes and the Sideling.

Best for If you roll in tired
Open in Maps

Legs 366 km

Coles Bay -> St Helens, via both passes
A3 / A4
130 km · 2h15
St Helens -> Scottsdale, via Weldborough Pass
A3
130 km · 2h05
Scottsdale -> Bridport
B84
21 km · 0h20
Bridport -> Launceston, via the Sideling
B84 / A3
85 km · 1h15

Along the way 22 optional

Nothing here is scheduled. This is what else is on today's road, roughly in the order you pass it - for when a walk gets cut short or the weather turns.

Coffee, food and drink 6

Blue Edge Bakery
Bicheno · Bakery
20 min

Opens early, which matters on a 06:30 start. Widely rated pies - the veggie and the chicken curry get named specifically.

Open in Maps
Mt Elephant Pancake Barn
Elephant Pass · Food
35 min

A genuine institution at the top of the pass. WATCH - check the opening time, you arrive about 08:40 and it may not be open yet.

Open in Maps
Lifebuoy Cafe
St Helens · Coffee
25 min

Consistently the local pick, and the last good coffee before the northeast.

Open in Maps
The fish punts, Quail St
St Helens · Food
30 min

Straight off the boat at the wharf. Also Quail St Emporium for provisions.

Open in Maps
Pyengana Dairy, Holy Cow Cafe
Pyengana · Food
45 min

Cloth-bound cheddar made here since 1890, with a cafe on site. Right by St Columba Falls on the sealed C428.

Open in Maps
Weldborough Hotel
Weldborough · Drink
45 min

Isolated pub with a remarkable beer list for the middle of nowhere. Reduced midweek hours out of season.

Open in Maps

Sights and activities 16

Bicheno Blowhole and the Gulch
Bicheno · Geology
30 min

Fires spray high on a decent swell, and it is walkable from the foreshore footway.

Open in Maps
Whalers Lookout
Bicheno · Viewpoint
30 min

Short steep climb above town for the coast in both directions.

Open in Maps
Apsley Waterhole
Douglas-Apsley · Walk
45 min

Ten minutes off the highway north of Bicheno, and a swimming hole in dry forest. Access road is partly gravel - check it.

Open in Maps
Chain of Lagoons
Chain of Lagoons · Scenery
15 min

Where you turn inland for Elephant Pass. Worth two minutes for the coastal lagoons.

Open in Maps
The Purple Possum
St Marys · Cafe
30 min

Cafe, wholefoods store, gallery and produce garden. The other reason to stop in St Marys.

Open in Maps
South Sister lookout
St Marys · Viewpoint
45 min

Big view over the Fingal Valley and the coast. WATCH - the access road is gravel and steep.

Open in Maps
Scamander river mouth
Scamander · Beach
20 min

Long beach and an estuary, halfway between the two passes.

Open in Maps
Bay of Fires to The Gardens
Binalong Bay · Scenery
1 hr

Sealed road running along the edge of the beach - orange lichen granite against white sand. The first thing to cut if the clock is against you.

Open in Maps
Pub in the Paddock
Pyengana · Curiosity
45 min

An 1880 pub alone in a field. Long famous for beer-drinking pigs - check whether that still runs.

Open in Maps
Weldborough Pass rainforest walk
Weldborough · Walk
30 min

Short signed loop through myrtle and tree fern at the top of the best pass on the trip.

Open in Maps
Goblin Forest walk
Blue Tier · Walk
2 hrs

Moss, myrtle and tin-mining relics, 7 km of forestry gravel off the pass. The only real walk available today, and the golf is already your exercise.

Open in Maps
Little Blue Lake
Derby · Curiosity
20 min

Startling turquoise flooded tin mine. Beautiful, toxic, and absolutely not for swimming.

Open in Maps
Tin Centre and Blue Derby trails
Derby · Museum
45 min

Old mining town turned world-class mountain-bike destination, with decent coffee as a result.

Open in Maps
Carved Memorial Trees
Legerwood · Public art
20 min

Chainsaw-carved WWI memorial trees, one per local soldier. Ten minutes off the A3 and unexpectedly affecting.

Open in Maps
Northeast Park
Scottsdale · Walk
20 min

Riverside park at the edge of town. Somewhere to stretch before the Sideling.

Open in Maps
Bridport foreshore and Granite Point
Bridport · Walk
40 min

Flat coastal path and white sand ten minutes from the course. Something gentle for the legs.

Open in Maps

Road surface

All sealed. Blue Tier is off the list - the golf is today's walking.

360 km · 5.5 hrs driving · Launceston - 73-75 St John St

← Day 7Freycinet, then Dolphin SandsDay 9 →The long plateau, then the ferry